With autumn in the air, my taste turns a little to more robust reds, and a few impressive bottles have come across my desk in the past week.
Wakefield Jaraman 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawarra & Clare Valley, South Australia ($24.95)
Do you like sweet, chocolatey California cabs? Then this is not for you. Jaraman separates itself from the pack of typical cabs by virtue of its distinctive herbal nature—an intriguingly aromatic collection of menthol, eucalyptus and mint wafting amongst a bounty of blackberry and baking chocolate. Once it reaches the tongue, blackberry and dark tart cherry take over, with a dash of cassis thrown in for good measure. Full-bodied, the tannins are there, but they don’t really interfere with the overall package. A great vintage for both South Australia’s Clare Valley and Coonawarra regions, this 2016 edition is drinking very well right now, but will probably benefit from a year or two of sleep in the bottle. Food-wise, this needs something big to stand up to it. I’m thinking ‘lamb.’ 90
Freemark Abbey Napa 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon – Oakville (Napa), California ($69.95)
Plush, mouth-watering black cherry, blueberry and blackberry fruit awaken the senses in this 2015 production—a terrifically balanced, long-finishing Cabernet blended from a handful of esteemed Jackson Family Wines Napa vineyards. Forest floor herbs and cedar notes sing in harmony. A hair under 15% alcohol, but it’s so well integrated that it’s completely unobtrusive. Same thing goes for the tannic structure. In other words, pour away now if you like. But if you have the patience, it’ll happily sit and evolve for a good decade. (A little history lesson: Freemark Abbey, which dates back to 1886, competed in the wine industry-shattering “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting in 1976—the only winery with both a red and white wine represented.) (And another interesting note: This is $60 US at the winery! So it’s hard to beat the exchange rate on this gem.) 93
Bellingham Homestead Shiraz 2017 – Paarl, South Africa ($18.95)
Violet-infused dark red fruits but soft edges make this dense, smoky, meaty Shiraz something special for the price. Black cherry, blackberry and plum are complemented by a light sprinkling of pepper. Plenty of zing, plenty of taste. 90
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