Since I began my Best Value wine list around 15 years ago, a small group of wineries have continued to crack the top 40. One of those is the environmentally conscious Beronia from Spain’s La Rioja region. Beronia’s Rioja Tempranillo ($15.95) has made a regular appearance on the list while its Elaboración Especial Tempranillo ($18.95) has never missed it.

As I was assembling the 2023 edition of the annual Top 40 values under $20, I decided to probe a little deeper into four wineries whose products keep showing up. The interview below with Beronia is the last of the four Q&As I conducted. It features Toni Batet, Regional Sales & International Singular Estate Wines Director, and head winemaker Matías Calleja, whose tenure with his winery dates to 1982.

Tell me about the genesis of your Elaboración Especial Tempranillo.
MC: “More than 10 years ago, we decided to produce a special wine with our best-quality vineyards near the winery in order to elaborate a high-quality wine. The process begins with a special selection of vineyards and grapes. The second step was to focus on achieving the perfect balance between fruit and oak integration. To achieve this, for the first time, we began conducting both the alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in American and French mixed-oak barrels. What we were aiming to do was to achieve a wine texture that speaks to its careful aging and craftsmanship, as the refined tannins contribute to a smooth and seamless mouthfeel.”

I’ve always found a smoky character to the Elaboración Especial. Are your barrels well-toasted to help create that effect?
TB: “To be honest, we use medium- to low-toasted barrels for that wine. We’re careful to not over-oak our wines. The barrels, of course, help to define the style—we think of it as a support. But oak should never be predominant or present more than fruit character of Tempranillo. Given the very high quality of grapes this land delivers, our prime concern is always to take care of them—not to spoil them.

“That said, Matías was also a pioneer in the use of mixed oak barrels—a combination of American oak staves and French oak ends. The marriage of the two adds a unique combination of complex aromas and flavours.

“The barrels we use are generally less than four years old—young enough to help develop secondary flavours and aromas while still allowing the wines’ natural characteristics to develop. Time spent in the bottle prior to release allows the wines to rest and evolve even further. When we have no further use for the barrels, we sell them to be repurposed, be it for aging whisky or for characterful garden planters.”

How do you describe the Elaboración Especial and Rioja Tempranillo?
MC: “The taste profile of the Elaboración is rich and intense, with prominent notes of dark fruits, such as blackberries and plums, with layers of spices and cocoa. Subtle notes of leather or tobacco might appear. The careful control over the Tempranillo grape, known as the king of Spanish grapes, is evident in every aspect of this wine.

“Our Rioja Tempranillo presents a well-balanced texture, with gentle tannins. Its fruitiness and structural elements create a harmonious and approachable mouthfeel. As I savour this wine, I find its taste profile to be approachable and inviting. Distinct from the Elaboración Especial, it has red fruit notes of cherries and raspberries, accompanied by the subtle note of vanilla from oak aging, resulting in a wine that’s versatile and easily enjoyed.”

Both the 2021 Rioja and Elaboración Especial were on my most recent Best Value list. How do you describe the 2021 vintage?
MC: “The significant feature over the growing year was that both winter and spring were mild, which meant bud-burst, flowering and fruit-set were earlier than usual. Rainfall was in line with the average for winter, but there were storms in spring—some of them hail, albeit in very specific areas. Veraison happened in the first few days of August, which was a very hot month, signalling that the harvest would be about 15 days earlier than usual. The weather changed dramatically in early September, with mild daytime temperatures and much cooler nighttime temperatures, creating a broad diurnal range—ideal for the grapes and their phenolic ripening to develop well. The outcome was satisfactory, with healthy grapes, nicely mature skins and sweet tannins. The crop was classified as ‘very good.’”

The Elaboración Especial really developed during the winemaking process.
MC: “As winemakers, we were captivated by the intensity of flavours that emerged during the aging process. The dark fruit notes, interwoven with delicate hints of spice, are a testament to the exceptional quality of the grapes that went into this vintage. It was a result of the careful attention given to the extraction and maturation processes.”

Give me one of your favourite food pairings with the Elaboración Especial.
MC: “My favourite dish for this wine, which is known for its deep and intense flavours, would be a slow-roasted rack of lamb with rosemary. The elegant nature of this wine, with its notes of dark fruit, hints of spice and well-integrated tannins, forms a splendid union with the tender and flavourful meat. The herbal essence of rosemary provides a really captivating aromatic layer that resonates with the wine’s complexity. And the savory qualities of the lamb complement the wine’s depth, while the wine’s acidity helps cut through the lamb’s richness, resulting in a harmonious balance between the two.”

We’ve talked about the Tempranillo and the Elaboración Especial, but it sounds like you think your Reserva, which is $22.95 here, might be an even superior value.
TB: “The Reserva is a shining example of the best quality-to-price ratio within the world of wines. We are particularly proud of the 2019 vintage, which highlights the essence of the winery. Our vineyards were carefully tended to ensure optimal grape ripening and flavour development, while our winemaking team employs meticulous techniques to show the essence of the region’s terroir. The result is a wine that shows authenticity and character.

“Furthermore, the Reserva’s aging process contributes significantly to its outstanding value. The wine is matured in a balanced combination of American and French oak barrels, adding layers of complexity and character without compromising its affordability.”