Some people like to taste different things. Others prefer the comfort of tried-and-true classics. That’s what we’ve got for you here today: Two wines with diverse appeal—one of which my wife wanted to pour back into the bottle; the other where she wanted to grab my glass and add it to the contents of hers.

I’ll let you guess which is which.

Lungarotti Ilbio Rosso 2020 — Umbria, Italy ($26.95)
This is an unabashedly tarry, piney, leathery, earthy, rich red made from the local Sagrantino grape in Umbria—probably the most tannic grape in Italy, but also super-high in antioxidants. It’s the flagship grape from Umbria, which is roughly situated in the bullseye of Italy, two hours north of Rome. Aged 10 months in large oak barrels and then an additional six months in the bottle, there’s tart cherry, dried cherry and cranberry notes carrying the load as far as fruit goes, with some tertiary aromas of eucalyptus, black tea and cinnamon. In the glass it’s just shy of full bodied. You need to appreciate the distinct, authentic style of this Sagrantino, which is organically made and embraces its rustic nature. It benefits from decanting to soften, but its powerful notes will still be fully intact. It’s dry on the palate, (just 2 grams of residual sugar), with a very thorough coating of fine tannins. (The “bio” part of the wine’s name, by the way, is derived from its organic nature.)

There’s something I find genuinely appealing about tasting such unadulterated authenticity in a native grape. Given that aforementioned tannin and astringency, think of pairing it up with meats that have a little fat attached, from sausages to spare ribs. Mushrooms and truffles also fit, given the complementary wild forest floor notes of this wine. 89

Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2021 — Marlborough, New Zealand ($21.95)
From the “Golden Mile” of the Wairau Valley in Marlborough comes this smooth, elegant, medium-bodied Sauvignon Blanc. This is more aromatic and riper than the standard Stoneleigh tier—”a result of higher concentration of the sunstones in the area and the remarkable impact this has on the vines,” notes the winery. (The stones reflect the hot sun during the day, while retaining the day’s heat through the night, nourishing the vines and optimizing grape-growing conditions.) A small portion was fermented in French oak to add complexity and texture to the mid-palate, with the remainder in stainless steel to preserve the intense tropical citrus notes of passionfruit, guava, lime zest and, to a lesser degree, grapefruit. Perfect with fish tacos, and a handy white wine to keep around during the  holidays due to its refreshing nature but silky texture. Wonderful value. 92