Even for people who could care less what kind of soil their favourite wine was grown in, Château des Nages’ Costières de Nîmes appellation is rather intriguing. The Rhône Valley’s most southern vineyard, descending to where the Rhone River meets the Mediterranean Sea, it benefits from the moderating effect of sea breezes, preserving freshness and purity of fruit, with full maturity almost guaranteed.

Situated in the heart of a Natura 2000 zone (an ecological network of protected areas of the European Union), this scenic, deeply rooted vineyard is organically farmed under the eye of acclaimed head winemaker Michel Gassier. The top layer of its terroir is made up of stony deposits from the Rhône called “Gres”, ranging from five to 25 metres in depth. Below are red iron-rich clay beds that retain water and help the vineyards in times of drought.ButiNAGES (which means “gather nectar”) hails from the winery’s younger vineyards, but receives the same attentiveness as its other wines.A blend of 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre, it’s unoaked, so the focus is on the purity of fruit. Violets, herbs, blackberries and raspberries carry the load on the nose. On the palate, the tannins are barely more than lightweight, with more dark red fruit and a hint of pepper playfully working their way into this medium-bodied blend.It’s ideal with Mediterranean cuisine, grilled meats and roasted chicken, the winery suggests, but it’s also a safe crowd-pleasing red to casually sip on. 89

 

Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2018 — Veneto, Italy ($18.95)
With the exception of its Veneto Rosso red blend, this Valpolicella is Zenato’s entry point at the LCBO, and I’ve always felt you can judge a winery from its entry-tier product. Of the sub-$20 Valpolicellas at the LCBO, this might be the best. Medium+ in body, this blend of 85% Corvina Veronese, 10% Rondinella and 5% Corvinone features a bracing acidity and herbal splash that screams for food to partner with (think pepperoni-covered pizza, spaghetti and meat sauce or cajun burgers). On the nose, there’s black cherry, plum, violets and hints of chocolate and leather. On the palate, the tannins are firm, but it’s far from mouth-puckeringly dry, while delivering plenty of ripe, earthy dark red fruit and a dusting of pepper. Give it time to breathe to help soften its edges. 90

Certain areas of the world grow certain grapes (and make their accompanying wines) better than anywhere else on earth. That’s the case  with this Trebbiano di Lugana, which thrives on the southern coast of Lake Garda in Veneto in northeastern Italy—and in the hands of Zenato. Harvested from vines that average between 25 and 30 years of age, it’s a medium-full-bodied white with character. It teases at the start—an almost pinot grigio-like mineral, apple and melon on the nose. But then it explodes onto the palate and drenches you in crisp, rounded flavours ranging from pineapple to mango and apple. The delivery is silky, but still with a bright acidity. Zenato recommends pairing it with appetizers, fish and cold dishes, but I suggest a seafood ravioli. 91

 

Produced from Royalty raspberries (a larger species of the berry that turns purple as it matures and features stronger and sweeter flavours than traditional raspberries), here’s a glass of summer in winter. There’s a vibrant, concentrated waft of raspberry that leaps out of the glass and melds with its 13.5% alcohol as you nose this delightful non-vintage fruit wine from Niagara-on-the-Lake. It tastes like fresh, unadulterated, fermented raspberries on the palate too. There’s nothing else in there to mess things up—and one would expect nothing less from a winery that takes its organic and biodynamic culture extremely seriously. While it makes for a marvellous drizzle on ice cream, it’s also a superb pairing with cobbler and chocolate mousse. Serve slightly chilled. 90