From a Rioja with decades-old vines to a Spanish red with chainsaw-level attitude, this week’s lineup doesn’t believe in playing it safe. Add a lively sparkler and a lighter, easygoing “baby Ripasso” to the mix, and you’ve got four bottles with very different personalities—and plenty to talk about before the first sip.

Campobrun Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2023 — Veneto, Italy ($17.45)

I’ve always been a Ripasso fan: lotsa oomph without the hit to the pocketbook. The name means “re-passed,” referring to the practice of running young Valpolicella wine over the leftover grape skins from Amarone production, adding flavour, texture and body. Usually made with Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, Ripasso offers a taste of Amarone without the price tag. This Campobrun, from Cantina di Illasi, about 20 km east of Verona, is on the lighter side of Ripasso. Rather than enjoying a long relationship with those Amarone-soaked skins, it seems to have had a brief love affair. The result is a step up in texture and richness from everyday Valpolicella Superiore, without the heft of a full-blown Ripasso. At 13% alcohol and 8 g/L sugar, it’s an approachable Italian red that delivers flavour without overdoing the muscle. 89

Beronia Viñas Veijas 2022 —Rioja, Spain ($24.95)

Here’s my rule of thumb: If Beronia is on the label, buy it—it’ll be worth every penny, and then some. This limited-edition Rioja is a good argument for sticking to that policy. Made from vines at least 35 years old, with some topping 50, it’s a pet project of head winemaker Matías Calleja, who personally approves every grape that goes into the blend. The payoff is a red with plenty of personality: ripe cherry and blackberry lead the charge, with liquorice, spice and a whisper of toast adding intrigue. On the palate, it’s satisfyingly full-bodied and savoury, balancing concentrated fruit with cocoa, roasted almond and a refreshing hint of mint. There’s muscle here, but also enough freshness to keep things lively rather than ponderous. Pair it with roast beef or game. Or simply pour a glass and remind yourself why old vines can be worth their weight in gold. 14% alc. 2 g/L sugar. 91

Wineryart Demuerte One 2023 — Yecla, Spain ($20.95)

From Winery On Creations in eastern Spain’s Yecla region comes this slap-you-in-the-face blend of Monastrell and Cabernet Sauvignon. Subtle as a chainsaw, with 14.5% alcohol and 8 g/L sugar, it’s nevertheless an alluring, full-throttle red, with dark berry fruit, ripe plum and a spicy, warming finish. A welcome substitute for Canadians missing their big California Cabs, it arrives just in time for Halloween and Día de los Muertos. And—in keeping with it’s unshy qualities—it features a luminescent label that glows in the dark! 90

Sensi Prosecco 18k Gold 2025 — Treviso, Italy ($25.95)

The label is unmissable; thankfully, the contents aren’t just window dressing. Bright straw-yellow, with fine bubbles and a lively, refreshing character, this sparkling wine serves up apple, pear and aromatic herbal notes, finishing on a fruity note. At 11% alcohol and 10 g/L sugar, it’s an easygoing crowd-pleaser. The previous vintage earned gold at Montreal’s World Wine Selections, although with 590 other wines also taking gold, let’s not get carried away. Buy it for the wow factor when presenting the bottle; stay for the solid fizz inside. 88