There are roughly 350 officially recognized wine grapes in Italy, but more than 500 varieties overall. But don’t worry, I’m only looking at three wines today. But if you’re unfamiliar with any of the following grapes, you should probably make their acquaintance.

Ferzo Abruzzo Pecorino Superiore 2020 — Abruzzo, Italy ($18.95)
A ferzo refers to a patch of fabric stitched together with others to create a sail or flag, the winery explains. The label, featuring a single small sailing ship upon a two-toned overlapping canvas, is emblematic of that union. And so is the contents—a collection of Pecorino grapes from multiple vineyards in Abruzzo, a central Italy region situated between the Apennine Mountains and Adriatic sea. The composition of that blend, just shy of medium bodied, offers subtle notes lemon/lime and saline. Its art is in its subtlety, though—nothing sharp or overpowering, with a dry, smooth lemony slate palate and lovely acidity. If you’re generally a fan of sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio, give this one a whirl. 89

Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d’Asti 2018 — Piedmont, Italy ($15.95)
This wine from northwestern Italy has been a mainstay on my Best 36 Wines Under $18 list for years. Inky crimson in colour, meaty blackberry/cherry on the nose, and a silky tart dark cherry on the palate, with light tannins and bright acidity. Whether pizza, pasta or dishes with fatty sauces, this Barbera is a great pairing for Italian cuisine. 13.5% alc. 89+

Tommasi Valpolicella 2020 — Veneto, Italy ($15.95)
A blend of 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella and 10% Molinara, this is a droolingly high-acid Valpolicella that needs a little time to breathe before serving (admittedly, it’s a 2020 vintage, so it’s not like it’s had piles of time to age in the bottle). Six months of aging in stainless steel, though, has kept it fresh and juicy. Featuring roughly the body of a typical gamay or pinot noir, its healthy acidity is accompanied by a juicy cherry/strawberry blast in the glass, with the lightest dusting of herbs. 87