Here’s a fab foursome of wines for you this week, including a pair of winners from Germany.

A. Christmann Riesling Trocken 2017 — Pfalz, Germany ($33.55)
A very dry and elegant Riesling from a winery that’s been in operation since 1798, so, ya, they’ve figured it out here. This hails from the sunniest wine region in Germany (Pfalz), so the fruit—which includes a soft lemon/lime zest—is ripe. But it’s a salty, herbal minerality through its lengthy finish that really wins the day. Not inexpensive, but awfully smooth for a so-called ‘entry-level’ wine from A. Christmann. Private order through CGU Fine Wines. 91

Wittmann Weissburgunder Trocken (Pinot Blanc) 2017 — Rheinhessen, Germany ($24.95)
Certified biodynamic since 2004—and organic since 1990—Wittmann’s Pinot Blanc grapes are grown in chalky soils, hand picked and fermented in huge oak barrels, before the wine is stored on its lees for eight months. The result is a dry Pinot Blanc that’s soft in texture with great legs. Sitting somewhere between medium and medium-plus in body, it makes for a soft mouthfeel, with a mineral streak that deftly subdues its tropical notes of mango, peach, lemon and Granny Smith apple. I love Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl’s description of this wine as “perfectly proportioned.” This will have universal appeal for white wine fans, with huge food-pairing flexibility but enough crispness to easily stand on its own. Great value. 91

Ermete Medici & Figli Concerto 2018, Doc Lambrusco Reggiano 2018 — Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($19.95)
Want to impress your guests with something a little different? Pull out of bottle of this Lambrusco, a spritzy, gripping red from north-central Italy that will pair wonderfully with Brie goat cheese on a crostini. It has a deep red Zinfandel-like density of colour, a bit of a tannic grip, with tart cherry, plum and prune on the palate. Serve it well chilled and drink within two days, since those light bubbles are short-lived. 88

LAN Reserva 2012 — Rioja, Spain ($24.95)
At the height of its powers right now. There are some background notes of leather and vanilla, but they’re mostly overpowered by a balsamic dark fruit blend of blueberry and black cherry. The oak is still there, but it’s mellowed with time, as have the tannins. Robust but still smooth, it’s an attractive match for dark chocolate, lamb or steak. Decant beforehand. 90.5