This summer, wildfires have brought an unsettling new note to multiple international winegrowing regions. Near Bordeaux, France, flames approached the region’s vineyards, and in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, evacuations and repeated smoke exposure have left growers worrying about the 2026 harvest.

Smoke from nearby fires remains a major concern for grape growers in Washington State, Oregon and Portugal. All these vines may yet survive the flames, but grapes can absorb smoke compounds during ripening, potentially producing wines with ashy, medicinal or sooty flavours—a far less charming cousin to the savoury herbal notes wine lovers seek.

Smoke taint has led some winemakers to abandon entire vintages or discard large portions of a harvest. For example, in B.C., Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars cancelled its entire 2021 vintage after smoke from the Thomas Creek wildfire contaminated the grapes. And in Australia, some Hunter Valley and Adelaide Hills producers abandoned their 2020 crop. One winery reportedly scrapped a vintage from which it normally produced 30,000 cases.

It’s a timely reminder that wine tastes can capture place, but also—and always—Mother Nature.

But let’s balance that bad news with more uplifting reviews—specifically, a pair of recent releases at the LCBO for you today—both vintages of which were born and raised in optimal wine-growing conditions. Yes, there’s a hint of smoke in the Bordeaux below—but in the best way possible.

Poças Tongue Twister Vinho Verde 2025 — Minho, Portugal ($16.95)

Here’s a little Portuguese mischief-maker—exuberant, tart and zesty, with a low enough sugar and alcohol level to make you stay at the party a couple hours longer than you intended. It’s made from 100% Loureiro (since I don’t expect you to know that grape, think a dry, cool-climate Riesling crossed with an earthy Sauvignon Blanc.) It arrives with a bright citrus flourish, then slips into peach, minerals and herbal and pine-needle notes, with a mouth-watering finish. A great summer wine to pair with grilled seafood, light cheeses or a summer salad—or simply alongside a patio and someone who has agreed to handle the barbecue. 12% alc. 3 g/L sugar. 88

Château de Ribebon Réserve Bordeaux Supérieur 2020 — Bordeaux, France ($17.95)

Slightly weightier than medium-bodied, this blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc is a savoury, quietly confident Bordeaux, rather than a blockbuster. Its Merlot-led blend brings generous blackberry, blackcurrant and ripe cherry, while dried herbs, toast, smoke and gentle earthiness add personality. The palate is fresh and well-shaped, with firm youthful tannins giving definition to the juicy fruit. Really solid for the price. Enjoy it with roast beef, lamb, mushroom dishes or even hot dogs and burgers, preferably after a brief decant.13.5% alc. 3 g/L sugar. 89