You know that friend who initially rubs many people the wrong way, but the more time you spend with them, the more layers they reveal, and the more you come to love and appreciate them?

That’s Barolo.

It’s different. It’s complex. It takes patience and a bit of money and effort to get to know it properly. But then it becomes this lifelong relationship.

If you’re not blessed with the financial resources of Johnny Depp, Jay-Z, LeBron James and former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe—all of whom count Barolo near or at the very top of their favourite wines—patience is a key requirement before uncorking a bottle. Because if you’re looking for a Barolo to pair with your mushroom risotto or plate of hard cheeses tonight, it’s more likely coming from deep within your wine cellar than from the neighbourhood LCBO.

High in acid and quite high in tannin, Barolo, you see, is one of the most age-worthy (and age-required) wines in the world. It generally takes a decade before those rugged tannins soften enough to make the wine approachable for most folks—although I personally don’t mind the robust, earthy, tarry, rose petal, dried cherry nature to the youthful Nebbiolo grape, from which Barolo is made.

THE FOG

Nebbiolo, it’s worth noting, is a bit of a hermit. It doesn’t much like leaving home. Outside of one particular segment of Piedmont in northwestern Italy, not many folks even attempt to grow this fickle grape. It thrives in the eternally rolling, fog-hugging hillsides of its native land (Nebbiolo was likely derived from the Italian word nebbia, which means ‘fog’, although it might also have something to do with the white, powdery bloom it features during harvest).

Another reason you don’t see Nebbiolo the world over is because it’s not exactly the easiest grape to grow. In Piedmont, it’s one of the first varietals to experience budbreak (making it susceptible to spring hail) and last to be picked (making it vulnerable to unpredictable late-October weather).

Further, if you want to legally call it Barolo, there’s a pile of regulations you have to follow; the Nebbiolo grapes must be grown on a hillside that does not face north, for example, and must be aged at least 36 months (18 in oak). And if you want to call it Riserva, a minimum of five years’ aging is required.

All those factors combine to make this an expensive wine to make, and, subsequently, to buy (Barolos start around $30 and quickly escalate into the $100+ category from there.)

Barolo is known as the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings (the former for its power and long life; the latter for its association with nobility dating back to the 19th century, when it was favoured by the reigning dynasty.) In the glass, though, it really doesn’t appear all that imposing—think Pinor Noir with an orange tinge. But those subdued hues bely the potency of the wine, including the aforementioned tongue-sticking tannins in its youth.

ELEGANT EXPRESSION

Suffice it to say that no two Barolos are alike. Like Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo can be incredibly expressive of the terroir from which it comes. Even given identical growing conditions, winemaking and weather, a wine can still taste vastly different from one grown, say, just 100 metres away. And even within the tiny Nebbiolo-growing region of Piedmont, there are huge inherent differences in the expression of the grape depending upon location.

Which brings us to why Aurelio Settimo will always be a good introduction for many into the world of fine Barolo.

Winemaker Tiziana Settimo subscribes to a philosophy of less maceration than her father or grandparents did (the process by which grape materials such as tannins, colour and flavour are leached from the grape skin, seeds, etc. into the must). Less time hanging out with those attitude-laden Nebbiolo skins means a more restrained and sophisticated expression of the grape than that of many of her fellow Barolo makers.

“I’m looking for power, but elegance too. I don’t like too dry or too heavy. Balance is very important for me,” said Tiziana earlier this week during a webinar from the Aurelio Settimo winery in the hamlet of Frazione Annunziata in La Morra, Italy.

Generally speaking, the La Morra district itself, due to its soil composition, yields Barolos that, while possessing great cellaring potential, tend to be much more perfumed, elegant and approachable than most Nebbiolo grown elsewhere in the region.

Oh, and if you’re planning on drinking this wine, think about including food—it’s not particularly meant to be a casual sipper. So look to marry it with hard cheeses, truffles, pasta, red meat—even white meat if it’s made in La Morra.

Here’s a rundown of the five wines we tasted this week, courtesy of the importing agency of Profile Wine Group.

Aurelio Settimo Dolcetto D’Alba DOC 2018 — $22.99 (via agency only)
I have just written a bunch about Nebbiolo, but another popular red grape in Piedmont is Dolcetto. Just 12.5% alcohol, this is a soft but really well structured light- to medium-bodied red that has been aged 12 months in concrete, with another three months in the bottle. “Green Experience”-certified for its sustainable agriculture, this features soft tannins and notes of strawberry and cherry bubblegum, as well as cranberry, earthy red currant and a little spice. It can be cellared for a couple years, but is ready to drink now. And it is quite flexible with food pairings—everything from pizza to oysters. Serve it at 16C. A super value, the latest vintage of which will be available to Profile Group late this spring. 90

Aurelio Settimo Langhe DOC Nebbiolo 2016 — $39.99 (via agency only)
They don’t make this wine every year—it needs to be a good vintage. And whatever Nebbiolo grapes they harvest means fewer Nebbiolo grapes used for their pricier Barolo. But that is great news for those seeking affordable entry points into this category. These grapes spent less time on the skins than they would for Barolo, and were aged 36 months in concrete tanks only. The result is a powerful medium- to full-bodied Nebbiolo with great length. The tannins are certainly not shy, but they’re smooth and add great structure. There’s eight to 10 years of cellaring potential, but it’s quite enjoyable now with a good decanting. Look for notes of rose petals and violets in a wild-berry mix. There’s a raw, unadulterated purity here that is not for the faint of heart. Also coming late this spring to Profile Group. 92

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2015 — $54.99 (via agency only)
Winemaker Tiziana Settimo has created a lovely marriage of spice, roses and fruit with this 2015 edition of her classic Barolo. Garnet with a notable amber tinge, there’s some of that traditional Barolo tar on the nose, but also vanilla and vibrant red fruit. But this one still feels like it needs at least another five years in the cellar to let the alcohol subside and the edges to soften (and there’s probably 15 years of aging potential beyond that). I need to revisit this one in five to 10 years. 91

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata 2015 — $55.95 (Vintages release Sept. 18)
Provided the best growing site for the Nebbiolo vines at Aurelio Setimmo, with south-southwest exposure down the hillside, and aged for 42 months (including six in the bottle), a magnificent butterfly is beginning to emerge from its cocoon. There’s piles of life left, with an estimated 18-20 years of aging ability, but this is already superb and beautifully balanced right now. It’s a bright garnet in colour, with a nose of crushed rose and violet petals, cinnamon, balsamic vinegar, strawberry, eucalyptus and pencil shavings. There’s a dusted, dried strawberry to the palate. And when they coined the term “fine-grained tannins,” this might have been what they were talking about. Round and silky on the mouth, with a very long finish. Beautiful stuff. 94

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva 2012 — $134.99 (via agency only)
Aurelio Settimo doesn’t make Reserve wines on a regular basis—in fact, the next edition will be the 2016 vintage, and that one is still in barrels! Featuring a cellaring potential of 30-35 years, this 2012 edition was plucked from their oldest vines (40+ years), then aged for three years in concrete tanks and another three years in big French oak casks, and has been sitting in the bottle since 2018. Only beginning to come into its own, this wine has the decided stamp of its terroir—less about fruit and more about the exquisite tertiary earthy walnuts, clove, olive and balsamic tones. Dried cherry/strawberry fruit follows to taste. The 14.5% alcohol is still pretty racy, and decanting the wine several hours before serving is highly recommended. But you’re better off to cellar it for another decade. Only 3,539 bottles were produced from this fine vintage. 95