I’m not sure if there is a more chameleon-like wine grape than Chardonnay. From an elegant, flinty Chablis from Burgundy, France, to those stereotypical buttery, vanilla oak bombs from California, to a myriad of sparkling wines, for which Chardonnay is a key ingredient. And then was it aged in steel or oak, or a combination of the two? And was it grown in a cool climate or warm climate with longer hang time on the vine? It’s stunning how different this grape can taste.

Below are a trio of Chards, each with a unique structure and flavour profile.

And I’ve thrown in a value-priced Pinot Grigio to clean your palate in between.

Popcorn Chardonnay 2019 — VQA Niagara ($15.95 on sale for $13.95 until Aug. 15)
So what to do when vineyards have more grapes than they can deal with? You buy some of the excess and make your own wine. That’s what Dionysus Wines & Spirits’ owner Alex Patinios did with Popcorn Chardonnay (not to be confused with the California wine of the same name). Under the banner of Garage Wine Company and working with winemaker Marc Bradshaw of Strewn Winery in Niagara, they’ve developed something a little different.

“There are various techniques in the barrel aging and barrel fermentation to help bring out the buttery richness of the oak, but we want there to still be the balance with the great Niagara fruit,” Patinios explains. “A lot of effort goes into getting these characters in balance and at this price.”

Bradshaw, for his part, loves playing the mad scientist when it comes to blending. In this particular case it involved each of French, American and Canadian oak, as well as a little stainless steel aging. And even among the oak he utilized, there is variety—some old to draw out earthier qualities; some new to provide that traditional toasted, buttery punch. And all while striving to retain the distinctiveness of the fruit drawn from various Niagara vineyards.

The strategic combo delivers a bit of a funky ‘wild ferment’ nose to this yellow gold-hued wine, with notes of lemon merengue, orange rind and orange marmalade playing off against the oak. Those same flavours follow on the palate, with more of a buttery oak entering the equation. Plenty of acidity prevents it from feeling heavy, though, despite its medium+ body. Watch for some oak on the finish. Bradshaw likes to pair it with a burger and all the fixings, while some of his associates match it up with a pistachio-crusted salmon. Unique stuff, and not for everybody, but it’s been moving well at the LCBO and is about to turn over to the 2020 vintage. And you’ve gotta love the simplicity of the white popcorn box-styled label featuring a single popped kernel. 12.6% alc. 88

Albert Bichot Macon-Villages Chardonnay 2020 — Burgundy, France ($19.95)
The Mâconnais region in southern Burgundy tends to be acknowledged for its value-priced Chardonnays, and Maison Albert Bichot knows something of the practice, having been making wine here since 1831. As usual, roughly 80% of the wine has been aged in steel and 20% in oak over an eight-month period, preserving the fruit while adding some structure. There’s the usual leanness and minerality to this crisp, dry white, but the muggy 2020 growing season has slightly amped up the green apple aromatics. A solid entry into white Burgundy. If you’re traditionally more of a Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Grigio fan, this is probably your style of Chardonnay. Pair it up with shellfish. 13% alc. 88

Bread & Butter Chardonnay 2019 — Napa, California ($18.95)
Edge your nose into the glass and there’s little doubt that this is a traditional California-styled Chardonnay—with no shortage of butter, vanilla, oak and almonds, along with some tropical fruit hovering in the background. It’s lush enough that I felt like I should be dipping bread into it (who knows—maybe that’s where the wine’s name comes from.) For lovers of that full-bodied Cali Chard stereotype, this should be very popular at this price point. For those seeking something more subtle with higher acid, the buttery vanilla character may seem overpowering. Either way, a creamy pasta dish is probably the ideal match. 13.5% alc. 88

Mare Di Sirena Pinot Grigio 2020 — Italy ($8.90)
I’ve said it before, but when you’re under the $10 mark, one tends to be on the lookout for negatives more than positives. But there are no obvious faults to highlight here—just solid Italian Pinot Grigio. An understated nose of green apple, citrus and pear gives way to a dry, light, crisp and surprisingly smooth palate. 12% alc. 87