I once heard a winemaker observe, “Great wines only come from beautiful places.” I think he was stretching it a bit, but I got his point: It’s amazing how often beautiful locations coincide with striking wines. That’s certainly the case with the trio below.

Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2019 — Loire Valley, France ($21.95)
Vouvray means Chenin Blanc picked along the banks of the Loire Valley in France’s Touraine district. But styles vary significantly—it could be anything from traditionally made sparkling to a sweet still wine. This particular one, from Donatien Bahuaud, ranks in the medium-sweet category, but don’t fear—it comes off as only slightly off-dry, due mostly to its vibrant balancing acidity, which seems entirely consistent with its nose of Granny Smith apples. There’s also a scent of honey and pears. The palate sits somewhere between medium- and light-bodied, with a minerality entering the equation, which only further adds to its retrained nature, which I find rather appealing. Also good news is that the 2019 vintage is considered exceptional for Chenin Blanc in the Loire. Pair it up with a Caesar salad or with creamy cheeses. 90

Wakefield Jaraman Chardonnay 2018 — Clare Valley/Margaret River, Australia ($24.95)
A very warm vintage has predictably resulted in ripe fruit for this higher-tier chardonnay from Wakefield. If a chardonnay can be two styles at once, this one certainly strives for it. Along with nectarine, melon, lime and underripe pineapple, the eight months of barrel aging has provided a distinct buttery oak to the nose that suggests you’re about to plunge into a full-bodied white. But the first sip reveals less weight than anticipated. While still nice and round, it’s only medium+ in body with medium acidity driven by a very juicy sweet lemon and peach. There’s some oak atop the palate too, but nothing distracting. While it would be optimum if the two sides of its character were completely integrated, this is still an intriguing, satisfying and aromatic chardonnay. Pair it with curry. 90

Cakebread Cellars 2019 Chardonnay — Napa Valley, California ($61.95)
I love finding chardonnays that will appeal to the folks who say, “I don’t like chardonnay.” Often it’s merely a case of putting an unoaked bottle in front of them, so that they’re not overpowered by the stereotypical vanilla oak bomb to which too many have become accustomed. But sometimes, it’s a matter of finding the right balance. That’s what winemaker Stephanie Jacobs has accomplished with Cakebread Cellars’ flagship wine. Jacobs has allowed the cool growing conditions of the Carneros region (which overlaps Napa and Sonoma) to foster that ideal balance between fruit character and acidity in the grapes. Eight months of French oak barrel aging, leaving it on the yeast lees most of time, has enhanced texture and complexity. But Jacobs halted the malolactic fermentation 13% into the process to achieve the ideal acidity. The oak is really well integrated in a floral bouquet that shows off fresh citrus fruits. There’s more of the same on the palate—a mouth-coating texture, but with a clean, mineral finish and no oaky aftertaste, which really opens up the food-pairing scope. Available through Charton Hobbs wine agency in Canada. 92